In which I visit Grasse and wonder if Coco Chanel was right: Do women who don't wear perfume really have no future? And then I soak up the blue of Henri Matisse, Yves Klein and the Mediterranean sea.
We are going this year to Limoux, which is in an area that is less touristic but nevertheless very beautiful. I started writing recently about northern France, we live next to the border (in Belgium) which is not touristic (apart from Lille), I feel that many skip this authentic place. Thanks again for this post 💐
I will go there because my husband and brother are with me (I visited a few years ago), and planning a bit of the mountains and some towns in the area. If we will have the time maybe Andorra but I’m not sure yet!
Your lush descriptions and accompanying pictures make me want to visit Grasse and even Nice, though perhaps in the off-season. It was fascinating to learn how the foul-smelling leather trade in Grasse led to flower-based perfumes and how artists Yves Klein and Henri Matisse were inspired by the azure color of the Mediterranean. Very entertaining piece!
I spent a month on a study program in Nice in 1984 and the traffic was awful even then. I haven't gone back yet, although it tempts me for the museums. The photos of Grasse are excellent!
The information on the perfume was very interesting, and I could "smell" the flower fields from your beautiful description of the region. I would have to agree that the Riviera doesn't sound like much of a place to be, and I loved the description as a haven for shady people. In California, we found that people wanted their own slice of paradise so badly that they would do anything, including terrible things, to have it. Sounds the same there. Once again, I thoroughly enjoyed my travels through your eyes and writing!
I just got back from a few days in California - and although I avoided the cities for the most part (except for a day in San Francisco), I was reminded why I don't live there anymore. People are just kind of different here, aren't they??
Yes...it is a different mentality. There is a "protective nature" to people in such a crowded environment. They put up "walls" and almost any transaction becomes more complicated. I remember telling Rick that here I had to get used to not "Girding my loins" everyday to go out in society. Such a relief! But, when we go back to visit the kids there, I feel it again, and experience it again. California, due to crowding, just has a different way of navigating the world every day...
If it's any comfort, Jodi the traffic and ugly urban sprawl are very old realities. Next time you visit though go a little further East to Villefranche which stole our hearts ages ago has hardly changed even today.
Wonderful post. The urbanisme of the French Riviera really took be by surprise, too. Obviously, Cannes, Nice, etc are big cities, but no one prepares you for the traffic. We live in Collioure, on the sea, near the Spanish border. Much less crowded, much less chichi. Check it out some time!
Grasse definitely sounds like the preferable place to be rather than Nice, although we have visited there and enjoyed our time. It is definitely the haves rather than the have nots who reside and visit there. I think the problem with Europe in not having air conditioning as we are used to, is that they have far cooler weather than we do, definitely in Australia. We find when visiting family in the UK in the cooler weather the buildings are stiflingly hot! And up until the last couple of years when it has been warmer, there hasn’t been a need for air conditioning. Thank you for another great insight into places in France,
I definitely have mixed feelings about air conditioning - Americans use it too much. I hate having to constantly wear long sleeves or a sweater when going to a public building.
Wonderful! Love your stories!
We are going this year to Limoux, which is in an area that is less touristic but nevertheless very beautiful. I started writing recently about northern France, we live next to the border (in Belgium) which is not touristic (apart from Lille), I feel that many skip this authentic place. Thanks again for this post 💐
Ah, lovely! Will you be going to Carcasonne?? Belgium is first on my list of places to go back to - I didn't get to spend nearly enough time there. :)
I will go there because my husband and brother are with me (I visited a few years ago), and planning a bit of the mountains and some towns in the area. If we will have the time maybe Andorra but I’m not sure yet!
Your lush descriptions and accompanying pictures make me want to visit Grasse and even Nice, though perhaps in the off-season. It was fascinating to learn how the foul-smelling leather trade in Grasse led to flower-based perfumes and how artists Yves Klein and Henri Matisse were inspired by the azure color of the Mediterranean. Very entertaining piece!
Thank you Ruth! I'd love to go back during the rose harvest - it must be beautiful!
I spent a month on a study program in Nice in 1984 and the traffic was awful even then. I haven't gone back yet, although it tempts me for the museums. The photos of Grasse are excellent!
Thank you, Betty! I feel like I would like it more in the off-season...
Everything is better in France off-season!
The information on the perfume was very interesting, and I could "smell" the flower fields from your beautiful description of the region. I would have to agree that the Riviera doesn't sound like much of a place to be, and I loved the description as a haven for shady people. In California, we found that people wanted their own slice of paradise so badly that they would do anything, including terrible things, to have it. Sounds the same there. Once again, I thoroughly enjoyed my travels through your eyes and writing!
I just got back from a few days in California - and although I avoided the cities for the most part (except for a day in San Francisco), I was reminded why I don't live there anymore. People are just kind of different here, aren't they??
Yes...it is a different mentality. There is a "protective nature" to people in such a crowded environment. They put up "walls" and almost any transaction becomes more complicated. I remember telling Rick that here I had to get used to not "Girding my loins" everyday to go out in society. Such a relief! But, when we go back to visit the kids there, I feel it again, and experience it again. California, due to crowding, just has a different way of navigating the world every day...
A beautiful piece, which I will revisit often as it’s very uplifting and evokes many memories of travelling in the area.
Wonderful! Thank you, Rhian.
If it's any comfort, Jodi the traffic and ugly urban sprawl are very old realities. Next time you visit though go a little further East to Villefranche which stole our hearts ages ago has hardly changed even today.
Apropos: https://open.substack.com/pub/marcoandsabrina/p/villefranche-sur-mer-french-riviera?r=10ijux&utm_campaign=post&utm_medium=web
I would have loved to have had another day to visit those towns just a bit further east...and also the Matisse chapel in Vence. Maybe someday!
Years ago I lived just down the hill from Grasse. Always been wary of going back lest I tarnish a beautiful memory.
Absolutely gorgeous piece, as always, and beautiful photos. I've made a note only to visit Grasse in the spring!
Thank you, Sarah!!
Wonderful post. The urbanisme of the French Riviera really took be by surprise, too. Obviously, Cannes, Nice, etc are big cities, but no one prepares you for the traffic. We live in Collioure, on the sea, near the Spanish border. Much less crowded, much less chichi. Check it out some time!
Thank you! Less chichi definitely sounds more my speed!
Geesh, get your (smaller than average) feet out of here 🙄🤪🤣
Who says that? Especially if you're trying to sell shoes. 😂
Grasse definitely sounds like the preferable place to be rather than Nice, although we have visited there and enjoyed our time. It is definitely the haves rather than the have nots who reside and visit there. I think the problem with Europe in not having air conditioning as we are used to, is that they have far cooler weather than we do, definitely in Australia. We find when visiting family in the UK in the cooler weather the buildings are stiflingly hot! And up until the last couple of years when it has been warmer, there hasn’t been a need for air conditioning. Thank you for another great insight into places in France,
I definitely have mixed feelings about air conditioning - Americans use it too much. I hate having to constantly wear long sleeves or a sweater when going to a public building.
But it is nice in a heatwave!